Your questions about corn snake care

Carol asks…

What is a good website that has a good corn snake care sheet?

Chris answers:

http://www.cornsnakes.net/index.php3

George asks…

how do i take care of corn snake eggs?

how do i care for the corn snake eggs??will the mother do every thing,so they can hatch???do i have to do any thing??plz help?

Chris answers:

Don’t listen to that last person. Corn snake eggs should be incubated at around 80 to 82 degrees. 95 degrees will kill a cornsnake egg, no doubt about it. There are no snake eggs incubated at that temperature, not even python eggs. And there is absolutely no reason to separate the eggs unless you’re trying to destroy them. You can get a Hova-bator for thirty bucks which works great: http://www.lllreptile.com

Michael asks…

How do i care for a corn snake and how do i convince my parents to get me one.?

I was searching for a reptile and someone(Penguin) saw a corn snake makes a a good pet and dont need UVB Lightning.And i want to know how to care for one and how to convince my parents.Cuz my mom wont like the idea(You know…She might say no)Plz answers.
Are they illegal to have in miami?

Chris answers:

If your parents have any sense of responsibility, they certainly won’t let you get any pet until after you’ve done a ton of research on how to care for it and whether or not its needs would fit well with your lifestyle. Until you research corn snakes, you can’t even know for sure whether or not you really want one. Also, you would have to find a reptile vet that you can get to. In any case, if your parents don’t want one, then it wouldn’t be fair to expect them to pay for the vet bills and everything and take care of the snake when you’re in college, and it wouldn’t be fair to the snake to be stuck with people who don’t want it.

David asks…

Corn snake care sheet?

im planning to get a corn snake but need to now how to take care of it

Chris answers:

Basic Corn Snake Care.

First and foremost, buy this stuff BEFORE you buy your snake. Best to have the setup ready for your snake before you bring it home.

20 gallon tank.
Water bowl large enough for the snake to soak in.
Hides, preferably multiple. Simple hides will do, driftwood, small cardboard boxes, etc.

Bedding. There is some debate on what is the best bedding, I have used shavings (do NOT use any with Cedar) and had no problems.

Heat source. NO NEED to buy an undertank heater. not only are heat rocks dangerous to snakes, but undertank heaters as well can cause burns if installed properly or if they malfunction.
Corn snakes live naturally in the Southern United States. Keep your ROOM TEMPERATURE at a range between 74 and 85 degrees constantly. Cornsnakes thrive better if the room in general is warmed to the necessary temperature. If you feel the urge, buy a heat lamp for overhead.

Terrarium tank should have a locking lid- Corn snakes are excellent escape artists.

Food-
corn snakes typically will grow on the following diet pattern, though it will vary from snake to snake.
Pinky mouse. Two pinky mice. Fuzzy. Fuzzy + Pinky. Hopper. Mouse.

When selecting your cornsnake, ask to see one that has not been fed, eat. Most reptile shops will happily oblige. A readily eating corn snake, even a hatchling, will prove far less problematic as your first time snake.

It does not hurt as a first timer to visit your reptile shop with your snake if you are unsure what food source size is appropriate as it gets bigger. You do NOT want to overfeed your corn snake as it can cause numerous problems. Rule of thumb is one food source item per week until adulthood, after hitting maturity feed it every 7-10 days.

Temperment/handling. While corn snakes are known to be naturally very tame, young snakes can and will be nervous around you. Do not fear a nip here or there from your young snake, and handling is appropriate and encouraged on a weekly basis. Do not handle the snake until 3-4 days after feeding. Expect the snake to expel a few bowel movements the first few times you pick him or her up, that is perfectly normal.

CLEANING-
Ensure you have a simple “critter carrier” (1 gallon carry-tank) to keep your snake while cleaning.
You can use dawn dishsoap and water when cleaning the tank (recommended once a month), but be sure to rinse thoroughly to avoid soap residue.
Be sure to scoop out feces within 24-48 hrs of pooping.
Change the water in the bowl 3 times a week, and every time the snake poops in it (this is normal as well).

It is essential you have a few rough surfaces in your tank, it will aid the snake in shedding.

SNAKE SHEDDING-
Snakes shed freqently during growth years, less frequently during adulthood. The first signs of your snake approaching a shed will be a faded color and faded eyes. Your snake may also refuse food, which is perfectly acceptable. Try to avoid bothering your snake during his/her shed- they are more vulnerable.

The aforementioned websites will expand on this.
Another good source are the Cornsnake forums (JUST GOOGLE THEM)- a great community of CS owners covering every topic imaginable.

Lastly- make sure you find a veterinarian in your area that handles Reptiles. Snakes typically cost less medically than mammals, but it is essential your vet hospital is knowledgeable for your pet if and when you encounter any problems. It is recommended (though not as frequently as it should be) that you take your snake to your vet once a year, much like you should go to your doctor. Annual checkups can aide in the health of your snake, particularly as it ages.
Hope all this was helpful!

Donald asks…

Corn Snake Care information needed?

Hi, could anyone give me some information on caring for corn snakes. Also i was just wondering how long a juvenile corn snake can last in a 2ft long tank?

Chris answers:

Look at this site is the best care sheet for corn snakes!!!!
http://www.reptilehabitat.com/corn_snake_care_sheet.htm

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